Clothing Label Folds Compared: Which Fold Suits Your Garment?

The same woven logo can sit flat on a pocket, hang as a tab from a neck seam or open like a tiny book in the side seam. What changes is the fold. Here we compare the six folds used for clothing labels, show how each is sewn and explain the arithmetic behind cut length.

Choosing a fold is not only an aesthetic decision. It affects sewing, comfort and how much of the design stays visible. As a clothing label manufacturer we calculate the tape length for every fold ourselves, but understanding the principles helps you design the artwork correctly from the start.

Six folds side by side

Fold	Shape in the garment	Sewing method	Example finished sizes (mm)	Typical use
Flat (straight cut)	Lies flat, or hangs as a flag	All four sides, both ends, or one end in a seam; iron-on or adhesive also possible	20 × 50, 25 × 70, 30 × 60	Patch-style brand labels, hem flags
End-fold	Neat rectangle with folded ends	Topstitched through the ends, or all round	15 × 50, 20 × 60, 25 × 70	Back neck, pocket, lining
Centre-fold	Double-layer tab hanging from a seam	Both ends inserted together into a seam	15 × 40, 20 × 50, 25 × 50	Neck labels, care and size labels
Mitre-fold	Flat face with two angled legs	Legs sewn into the neck seam	15 × 40, 20 × 50, 25 × 60 (face)	Shirts, knitwear, hanging labels
Loop fold	Small open loop	Joined ends sewn into a seam	10 × 15, 12 × 20, 15 × 25	Size loops, hanger loops, caps
Booklet	Stack of panels joined at one end	Joined end sewn into the side seam	30 × 60 to 40 × 100 per panel	Multilingual care and composition

These are common examples; we produce custom sizes in every fold. For help with dimensions, see our label dimensions guide.

Cut, finished and visible: three different lengths

Most fold confusion comes from mixing three measurements. The cut length is the tape before folding. The finished size is the label after folding, as you hold it. The visible size is what the customer sees once part of it disappears into the seam. We quote and proof by finished size and work out the cut length, but your artwork must respect the visible area. Width never changes, because labels fold along their length.

Worked examples

• Flat label, 25 × 70 mm: cut length equals 70 mm. If one end is sewn into a seam as a flag, around 8–10 mm of that is hidden.
• End-fold label, 20 × 60 mm finished: add a fold allowance of about 5–8 mm per end, giving a cut length of roughly 70–76 mm.
• Centre-fold label, 25 × 50 mm finished: cut length is double, 100 mm. Roughly 8–10 mm of the 50 mm goes into the seam, so keep the logo away from the open end.
• Loop fold, 12 × 20 mm finished: about twice the finished length plus a small overlap allowance.
• Mitre-fold: the angled legs consume extra tape, and wider tape needs more length to complete the 45° turn. We calculate it from your finished face size.

Choosing a fold by situation

You want the label to lie flat and look tailored

Use an end-fold. Both ends turn under to the reverse, hiding the cut edges, and the label is topstitched onto the back neck, a pocket or the lining. For an outer patch-style label with sealed edges, a flat cut stitched on all four sides works well – ultrasonic or laser cutting means the ends need no turning.

You want the label to hang from a seam

A centre-fold is folded in half so both ends enter the seam together. It offers two faces: logo on the front, size or care details on the back.

You want the full face visible with clean edges

A mitre-fold turns both ends at 45° so they point upwards side by side, forming a hanger shape. The legs go into the neck seam and the whole face stays on show. Be aware that some suppliers call this a Manhattan fold, while others use that name for an end-fold variant – a quick sketch prevents misunderstandings.

You need a small loop or a size marker

The loop fold brings both ends to the middle, creating a loop that stands slightly open. It suits small size labels next to the main label, hanger loops inside jackets and labels in caps.

You have more text than one panel can hold

A booklet stacks several panels joined at one end, either folded from one long tape or assembled from cut pieces. It is the answer for multilingual composition and care text, sewn into the side seam so the customer can leaf through. Panel count depends on the number of languages; our care labels page covers the options.

Edges make folds work

A fold is only as neat as the edge it folds. Ultrasonic cutting seals synthetic tape into a soft edge that folds crisply and does not fray. Laser cutting handles shaped labels, and hot knife cutting suits some heavier materials. Woven labels can also have true woven selvedges on the long sides. See our guide to label edges and cutting methods.

How to brief a fold

1. Name the fold and add a simple sketch of front and folded parts.
2. State finished width and length in mm.
3. Explain how it will be attached: seam insertion, topstitching or iron-on.
4. Mark the areas that will be hidden in the seam.
5. For centre-folds and booklets, list what goes on each face or panel.

Before a large order, ask us for a physical sample folded exactly as specified and sew it into a garment. Send a garment photo and your logo to [email protected]; we will recommend a fold, calculate the cut length and send a digital proof.

Frequently asked questions